Every vegetable patch needs a section for garlic! Garlic offers tons of flavor with minimal effort. It’s an excellent option for beginners because it’s pretty easy to grow, takes up relatively little space, stores well, and is easy to save from year to year. Once you buy garlic, you won’t need to purchase it again. Raised beds are often the preferred choice for growing garlic, but they aren’t your only option. In this post, we’ll dig into garlic’s soil requirements and why you may or may not want to install raised beds. 

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Soil structure is the most important feature to consider when growing garlic. The roots need as much air as they need water. Garlic performs best, forming the largest bulbs, in loose, well-drained soil. Sandy loam is ideal, but few people are blessed with soil like this.

If you’re working with heavy clay or sand, the best thing you can do is work plenty of organic matter into your beds. Add compost, well-aged manure, peat moss, rotted-down sawdust, or a combination. Growing a cover crop in your bed before planting garlic is another great method for building soil structure. 

If you haven’t done so already, a soil test can be helpful for garlic and all your other crops. Garlic and onions prefer a relatively neutral pH between 6.5 to 7.0. Soil outside this range that is too acidic or too alkaline will slow garlic’s growth and cause late maturity.

See more about amending soil and signs of nutrient deficiencies in our full garlic growing guide.

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Building raised beds is one solution to quickly provide good soil for garlic. There are a few pros and cons you should consider before you begin.

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• Raised beds quickly provide excellent, deep, loose soil for garlic.
• They warm up quickly in the spring.
• Raised beds usually drain well.
• Raised beds are generally easy to maintain and may help lessen weed pressure.

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• Bringing in soil, compost, and/or building materials can be costly.
• Raised beds may dry out more quickly and need watering during the summer.
• Eventually, raised beds may need to be repaired or replaced.

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It’s also perfectly acceptable to grow garlic right in the ground in a traditional garden bed. Like raised beds, this method comes with its pros and cons.

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• No construction is needed, and you won’t have to repair or maintain raised beds.
• Traditional beds are easy to till.
• Traditional beds are easy to incorporate into large irrigation or watering systems.

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• They may have dense clay soil or nutrient-poor sandy soil that may take a while to amend.
• Traditional beds tend to have poorer drainage and may stay wet in the spring.
• Traditional beds may be more susceptible to erosion and weed pressure.

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If you’ve decided that raised beds are right for you, it’s time to start planning. Generally, it’s a good idea to lay things out on paper before you begin construction.

Ideally, raised beds should be at least 12 inches deep. Their length doesn’t matter, though you may want to break one long bed into a few smaller ones to create working pathways. Their width is also a personal choice, but you should be able to easily reach into the middle of the bed to weed, plant, and harvest without standing in it. Many folks create beds 3 to 4 feet wide for this reason.

You also want to think about the location of your raised beds. Ensure they get plenty of sunlight and are within reach of your garden hose or irrigation system.

If you’re building multiple raised beds or placing them near other structures, it’s also a good idea to leave pathways around your beds that are at least wide enough to fit a wheelbarrow.

Remember that plant roots will often grow deeper than your raised bed. Don’t place a raised bed on any area contaminated with chemicals.

Once you’ve got a plan, you can frame up your raised beds. You can make raised beds from logs, rot-resistant lumber like black locust or cedar, stones, bricks, or blocks. Avoid using tires, pressure-treated lumber, or any materials that could leach chemicals into your food-producing beds. Depending on the material you use, corners can be held together with stakes, plumbing straps, or screws.

Fill your beds with good quality soil and compost or just finished compost. You will need more material than you think as it will settle. You should fill at least 12 inches deep with compost or good soil. Adding compost to the bed each year is also a good idea.

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While some gardeners prefer raised beds, many growers still find plenty of success growing garlic in the field. If you decide this is the best method for you, there are a few things to consider when preparing your beds. 

Garlic hates to have soggy feet. If you have space to work with, always locate beds for garlic and other alliums in your highest or best-draining areas. Low spots that stay consistently wet through the spring and early summer will make for a poor harvest.

Prepare your beds by adding plenty of organic matter either through cover cropping ahead of time or working in compost, peat moss, old rotted sawdust, or aged manure. As mentioned above, a soil test and any necessary amendments are also a good idea whether you need to change the pH or increase fertility.

Many people choose to till new beds, but you can also loosen the soil with a broad fork or garden fork for a no-till option. This is also a good choice for gardeners working in small spaces. Forks allow you to lift and loosen the soil without turning it over. 

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Garlic is generally an easy keeper, but there are a few things to remember that can improve your harvest. 

• Water garlic consistently if you don’t have much rainfall during its spring and summer growing period.
• Garlic doesn’t compete well with weeds. Keep your patch well-weeded for the biggest bulbs.
• Select an appropriate type of garlic for your garden and climate zone.
• Plant your garlic at the proper depth and spacing.
• Mulch garlic well with old leaves, straw, or hay.
• If you’re growing hardneck or Asiatic garlic, remove the scapes when they’re eating stage for the best bulb production.
• Use a garden fork to gently harvest bulbs and cure and store them properly.

From Jack O’ Lanterns and pumpkin pie to Cinderella and Camarão na moranga, pumpkins and winter squash have caught the attention of cooks, gardeners, and everyday folk worldwide. At SESE, we love the stories and flavors that come with heirloom pumpkins and winter squash. In honor of the season, we’ve decided to take a deep dive into these incredible plants including bits of history, folklore, and culinary use.

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What’s the difference between pumpkin and winter squash? Are they the same species? 

All winter squash and pumpkins are members of the Cucurbita genus, which is Latin for “gourd.” Depending on who you talk to, there are 13 to 30 species within this genus. The main ones we talk about are Curcurbita pepo, C. maxima, C. moschata, and C. mixta.

Pumpkins are generally what we call pumpkin-shaped winter squash, though they do come in many different shapes and sizes. While there are “pumpkins” in several of these species, people generally carve Curcurbita pepo pumpkins for Halloween.

Curcurbita pepo contains delicata winter squash, most summer squash and zucchini cultivars, and classic autumn pumpkins like the Connecticut Field Pumpkin and Small Sugar Pumpkin. These squashes tend to be more susceptible to vine borer damage, and the winter squashes and pumpkins don’t have a very long storage life. However, they sweeten up faster.

C. maxima contains many large, hard-shelled varieties that are great for storage, such as the Big Max Pumpkin, Buttercup, Rouge Vif d’Etampes (Cinderella) Pumpkin, and Candy Roaster varieties. They have delicate flesh and excellent flavor but perform best where the nights are cool and are somewhat susceptible to wilt.

C. moschata includes many long-keeping favorites, such as Magic Cushaw, Seminole Pumpkin, Old Fashioned Tenessee, and Butternut varieties. These varieties tend to have sweet, often fragrant flesh ideal for baking. They also have good resistance to vine borers and cucumber beetles but perform best in areas where nighttime temperatures remain above 60°F.

C. mixta (Also known as C. argyrosperma) tends to have coarser, less sweet flesh. They’re traditional southern crops that have fallen out of favor. Their large seeds are often ideal for roasting, and their flesh is excellent in savory dishes. We carry two varieties, Green-Striped Cushaw and Illinois (White Crookneck Pumpkin). Like moschata varieties, these have excellent resistance to vine borers and cucumber beetles. They also tolerate drought well.

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So, where are these species from? By Earth’s standards, the Cucurbita genus is relatively new on the scene, dating back to the Holocene, a geological period that began roughly 11,700 years ago. Scientists believe that in the wild, they likely originated in what’s now southern Mexico, south into South America, and North into what’s now the Southwestern United States. During the Holocene, megafauna ate the fruits and distributed the seeds.

Humans were quick to see the benefits of these species, and there’s evidence that Native Americans domesticated Cucurbita species at least 8,000 years ago, with different groups growing different species from southern Canada down through western South America.

C. pepo is particularly widespread, and the domesticated cultivars like yellow crooknecks, pumpkins, and scallops are likely ancient. They were probably domesticated in several times and places. Native people have grown C. pepo in Oaxaca, Mexico, for 8,000 to 10,000 years and in the United States for at least 4,000 years.

C. maxima was less widespread. These varieties have been cultivated for at least 4,000 years in South America and were likely first domesticated in Argentina or Uruguay. Interestingly, it appears these varieties weren’t present in North America until the 16th century, although Native Americans quickly adapted them along with their C. pepo varieties.

C. moschata has been more challenging for scientists to pin down. It may have originated in many regions of Central or South America, though they know that it has been present in Mexico, Belize, Guatemala, and Peru for 4,000 to 6,000 years. Native Americans were growing one of our favorite C. moschata varieties, the Seminole Pumpkin, at the time of European contact.

C. argyrosperma is also less widespread than C. Pepo. The wild form grows from Mexico south to Nicaragua. Native Americans spread this species from the Southwestern United States south to Panama, likely focusing on them for their large seeds, which are high in protein and oil. 

Over the years, folks have continued cultivating winter squash varieties and incorporating them into their own culture and cuisine worldwide. However, all of the groundwork and many of the varieties we still know and love, like Connecticut Field Pumpkins, Yellow Crookneck Summer Squash, and Seminole pumpkins, began with native farmers. 

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It’s easy to see how these big, colorful crops tend to catch the imagination. It’s hard to imagine at the beginning of the season how much food a few plants can produce. Native Americans used them as a staple crop, often drying them in mats or spirals for winter. 

They also used them as medicine. Reportedly, the Cherokee and Menominee used squash seeds as a diuretic, the Catawba chewed them for kidney issues, and the Aztecs used them to treat worms. The Mayans also used pumpkin juice as a burn salve. 

European colonists and explorers quickly added pumpkins and squash to their gardens and practices. They also sent seeds back to the old world, where the large, colorful squashes were incorporated into local cuisine and medicine. 

In many cultures in the Americas and abroad, pumpkins and winter squash were associated with fertility and abundance, perhaps because of their productive nature. 

Though it’s impossible to pinpoint the fascination with pumpkins, it’s still present in today’s stories and legends. Especially during autumn, you may run into these crops in stories like Cinderella, The Legend of Sleep Hollow, The Marvelous Land of Oz, and The Great Pumpkin.

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So when did we start carving them, and why? The tradition begins in Ireland and Scotland with the Celtic festival of Samhain. Like Halloween, it marked the beginning of the colder months and was usually celebrated on November 1st. People believed that on Samhain, the world of the gods was visible to humans and that souls that had died in the previous year would move onto the otherworld while some would return to visit their old homes.

Samhain was also associated with the tale of Stingy Jack. He was a drunken miser that loved to play mean tricks on his family and friends. One day, he also plays a trick on the devil. When Jack eventually passed, both god and the devil turned him away. He was sentenced to roam the earth for eternity.

In Ireland, folks began carving faces into turnips to Jack’s wandering soul away. When Irish and Scottish colonists made their start in North America, they found a perfect turnip substitute, the pumpkin. Pumpkins are much easier to carve and offer a charming orange glow. It’s no wonder they’ve stuck around!

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In the United States, we often focus on pumpkin and winter squash for sweet, seasonal dishes like pumpkin pie, pumpkin spice lattes, and other baked goods. However, pumpkins and winter squash are wonderful in a wide variety of recipes from around the world. Consider trying a few of these with your harvest to mix things up a bit:

• Camarão na Moranga (Brazilian Shrimp Stuffed Pumpkin) from Olivia’s Cuisine
• Nhopi (Pumpkin Porridge from Zimbabwe) from Eat Well Abi
• Mexican Calabaza en tacha (Candied Pumpkin for Día de Muertos celebrations) from Mexico in My Kitchen
• Kabocha Dango with Mitarashi Glaze (Japanese Pumpkin Recipe) from Chef JA Cooks
• Olad’i iz Tykvy (Russian Pumpkin Pancakes) from Tara’s Multicultural Table
• Burmese Pumpkin Curry with Mint & Tamarind from Krumpli
• Indian Kaddu ka Halwa from Swasthi’s Recipes
• Ghapama (Armenian Stuffed Pumpkin) from The Armenian Kitchen

You’ll find carrots on nearly any guide to fall gardening or storage crops. When managed, harvested, and stored correctly, carrots can have a great storage life, staying cool and crisp for months. Enjoy carrots well into the winter with these harvest and storage tips.  

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While you can store any carrot, not all varieties are well suited to long-term storage. Some varieties were bred with long-term storage in mind. At SESE, we carry a few heirlooms that were specifically bred for root cellar storage at a time when most people still relied on homegrown produce. If you want to store carrots for a long period, we recommend Danvers 126, Oxheart, Yellowstone, or gate io app.

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Small carrots are often ideal for salads and fresh eating, but you want well-developed carrots for storage. The tips should be starting to fill out and become more blunt. It is essential to get them seeded on time. Using shade cloth to cool the soil can help you get them growing even if it’s still hot.

Plan and plant so that you will be able to harvest fully developed carrots around your first frost date. Before harvesting your bed, pull a few carrots to check on their size and flavor, as days to maturity can vary with growing conditions. Fall brings shorter day lengths, so sometimes carrots that normally take 70 days to reach maturity could take as much as 100 days. 

Fall storage carrots are often tastiest when harvested after a few light frosts, but heavy frosts can damage any exposed shoulders. According to the National Weather Service, light frosts occur when temperatures dip to around 34°F (-1.1°C), and hard frosts occur when temperatures dip below 28°F (-2.2°C).

Watch the forecasts and try to hit your ideal storage window. Pull them before a hard frost when they’re still easy to dig.

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Stop watering a few days before harvesting to let the soil dry out a bit. Moist soil is fine; you just don’t want to deal with overly wet soil.

If possible, harvest your carrots on a cool, cloudy fall day. The hot sun hitting your roots as you harvest them can shorten their storage life.

To avoid breaking your carrots, especially in heavy clay soil, gently lift them from the bed with a broad fork or garden fork.

Gently shake or brush off any excess dirt. 

Cut the green tops off about 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the shoulders of each carrot.

Avoid cutting root hairs or trimming the roots, as cuts can cause decay.

Set aside any cracked or damaged roots for immediate use and organize roots by size.

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Before storing your carrots, you can wash them if desired. They must be handled gently to avoid any damage. If you decide to wash them, you must also allow them to air dry before storage. Washing ahead of time means they’re ready to go when you need them, but it isn’t required. 

Carrots can be stored for several months as long as they are mature, undamaged roots that you keep in the proper conditions. Ideal storage conditions include a temperature range of 32–38°F (0–3°C) and a relative humidity of 98%. This can be tough to achieve on a home scale but the closer you get, the longer your carrots will keep.

Smaller roots tend to start rotting more quickly, so it’s best to roughly organize your carrots by size and use up the smallest first. Check all your carrots every one to two weeks and remove and use or compost any that are starting to show signs of decay.

Storing Carrots in the Fridge

You can store carrots in the fridge if you’re working on a small scale. Place them in plastic bags in single layers and lay them in your crisper drawer.

Storing Carrots in a Basement or Root Cellar

A root cellar or basement is a traditional option, offering high humidity and cool temperatures. To store your carrots in a cellar, you’ll need sand and a container. This method allows you to store more carrots than in the fridge.

When finished, your containers will be extremely heavy, so it’s best to put them in place first, especially if they’re large. Plastic totes or wax-lined cardboard boxes work well for this. 

Place a layer of moist sand in your container, followed by a single layer of carrots. Then, cover the carrots with a layer of sand, repeating this process until your container is full and you have a layer of moist sand over the top.

Storing Carrots in the Ground

Many oldtimers also left their carrots in the ground and you can do the same. Keep in mind that if temperatures are still warm in your area, carrots can continue to mature and become woody, so this may not work well everywhere.

In cooler areas, your carrots may be fine for several months. We recommend covering the tops of the carrots with a thick layer. 

In areas with cold winters where the ground freezes, cover carrots with 12 to 18 inches of mulch like old hay or leaves. Push it aside to harvest. Row cover or low tunnels over the mulched-in carrot beds can offer additional protection. 

Keeping carrots in the ground all winter gives you a fresh supply of produce and can allow you to harvest seed next spring.

Canning or Freezing Carrots

A final option is to can or blanch and freeze your carrots. It’s not the same as having fresh carrots, but crisp storage carrots generally hold their texture and flavor quite well in both the freezing and canning process. 

Keep in mind that carrots are a low-acid food, so to water bath can them, you’ll need to pickle them. If you want to can plain carrots, you’ll need to use a pressure canner. gate.io app

 

Carrots are an excellent storage crop that can last for months when cared for properly. Handle your carrots with care and follow these tips to enjoy a steady supply of fresh carrots this winter.